Around the Cape: Monday August 27th

This morning we woke up to a delicious, home cooked breakfast at the Cliffhouse. We were looking forward to taking in views of the Atlantic Ocean while enjoying breakfast, but the morning brought heavy fog. With visibility reduced to several metres, we cautiously made off towards the Cataracts Provincial Park.



The park encloses a deep river gorge with two cascading waterfalls. There were stairs and walkways that descended into the gorge and across a river. Very nice!





From the park we made our way south to Cape St. Vincent, site of many woodland caribou and breaching humpback whales. Unfortunately, we saw neither caribou nor humpback whales. That said, we learned that it is late in the season to see humpback whales. Still wanting to see wildlife though, we headed up to the Salmonier Nature Park. This beautiful park consists of a boardwalk which brings visitors through various habitats and viewing areas. Along the way we were able to see snowy owls, bald eagles, falcons, otters, and moose!



Afterwards, we made our way to the quaint village of Brigus where we checked into the Brittoner Bed and Breakfast (constructed circa 1840). We spent the late afternoon enjoying lunch at the nearby Country Corner. Generous servings of mouthwatering seafood chowder and scrumptious blueberry crumble was an excellent way to fuel up before a walk around the historic community.





Later that evening we explored the area surrounding Brigus, including Cupids, Port de Grave, Bay Roberts, and Spaniard's Bay. Late night hunger pains were kept in check with a visit to Pizza Delight. Tasty! We then returned to the bed and breakfast for the night.

Along the Skerwink Trail: Sunday August 26th

This morning we were up an at em' early. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the inn and then headed off to explore the Skewerink trail. How fortuitous it was when we discovered that our inn was only a few hundred metres away from the trail head!

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The Skerwink trail was amazing! We completed the full 5.3 kilometre trail in approximately 3 hours, taking the coastal route first, then the inland route on the return. The trail closely follows the edge of the cliffs, and so at every turn there were stunning views of Trinity Bay. While the trail is relatively popular, we did not see anyone else along the trail. There were also no guard rails - so every step had to be taken with care!

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After checking out of the inn, we made our way south to the historic town of Trinity where we toured the many historic sites. From Trinity, it was a four hour drive to the small community of Branch. Located in the southwestern area of the Avalon Peninsula, we were taken by how much of a contrast there was from one part of the island to another. While the distance was not great, we certainly noticed a considerable change in weather and temperature. The fog was building as we made our way into Branch and were not confident that the weather was going to improve. Therefore, we made the decision to visit the Cape St. Mary's ecological reserve this evening as opposed to waiting until tomorrow as planned. Before heading off to visit the ecological reserve, we checked into the Cliffhouse bed and breakfast to drop off our things. We made our way to the ecological reserve as daylight was beginning to fade. There is a 15 minute hike along a well marked trail from the visitors interpretative centre to the actual rock which hundreds of thousands of birds call home. However, just as the Skerwink trail, there were no guard rails and so wondering off the path was not an option. Before we could see the birds, we could hear them calling. It was an incredible experience as we walked along the path: the sound of the ocean crashing against the rocks hundreds of metres below our feet, the sound of the birds, the cold grey sky, and approaching fog.

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The highlight of the ecological reserve is a rock that juts out of the ocean. This rock is home to more than 24000 northern gannets, 20000 black legged kittiwakes, 20000 common mures, 2000 thick billed mures, 100 pairs of razorbills, 60 pairs of black guillemonts, as well as Northern fulmar birds. It was truly unlike anything we had seen before. Visitors are within metres of the rock, but the ocean, hundreds of meters below, prevents anyone from getting too close.

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After marvelling at the sight for nearly a half hour, it was starting to get dark and we were getting hungry. On our way back to Branch we ate dinner at Gannets Nest. We began our dinner with moose soup. We then feasted on delicious pan fried salmon, cod, and scallops. It had been a long day, so we headed back to the bed and breakfast and turned in for the night.

Bonavista and Port Rexton: Saturday August 25th

Having taken the 14 hour ferry crossing from North Sydney to Argentia, Newfoundland, we had a few hours this morning to explore the ferry and snap a few pictures. The sky was clear and the waters realitively calm. We made landfall at 10:00am. What a site to see the island appear out from the horizion.



From Argentia we travelled north towards the Trans Canada Highway and up the Bonavista Peninsula to Port Rexton. We decided to endulge and spoil ourselves by reserving a room at Fishers Loft Inn. The Shipping News was filmed nearby, and this is the very same inn where Kevin Spacey and Judy Dench stayed while on location. The inn is a collection of randomly placed buildings, each beautifully coloured and unique. On the grounds was a garden from which ingredients are taken and used in the kitchen. Our room was perfectly situated overlooking the bay.

After checking in, we made our way further north along the peninsula to Bonavista. Along the route, a quick stop was made to sample the local road side fare: fries with dressing and gravy. Delicious! From there, we passed through the town of Bonavista and toured the Cape Bonavista lighthouse and walked in the footsteps of John Cabot (having supposedly landed here in 1497). We drove back into the town of Bonavista and had lunch at Skipper's Café. The saltfish and brewis (with scruncheons) was tasty. The pea soup and dumpling was so good that I am now a huge fan!

Further south along the coast we paid a visit to a provincial park known as the Dungeons (aka sea caves) and the town of Elliston, otherwise known as the root cellar capital of the world. Old and abandoned root cellars can be found throughout the town, many in the most unsuspecting of places. Just outside Elliston we did some puffin watching. All around us were puffins swopping down from the cliffs to the ocean below.





From here we returned to Port Rexton and our room for a little relaxation. Later that evening we enjoyed a delicious dinner of pan fried cod at the inn. It had been a long day so we retired for the evening, excited about tomorrow and the Skerwink trail.

It's MUN or Bust: Thursday August 23rd & Friday August 24th

We left Ottawa at lunch time on Thursday August 23rd. Destination: North Sidney, Nova Scotia. Our ferry was to depart on Friday August 24th at 3:30pm, but having drove all night with stops only for gas, coffee, and one 30 minute nap, we found ourselves with hours to spare in Cape Breton. So, the decision was made to make a detour and explore Cape Breton by way of the famed Cabot trail. Although we were very tired, the views from the road side lookouts were amazing and energized us! Tim Hortons in hand and pictures snapped, we made it around the Cabot trail in 4 hours. Before heading to the Marine Atlantic ferry terminal, we stopped for lunch at A&K Lick-A-Chick. This had to have been the best fried chicken I have eaten!



While waiting in line to board the ferry, a second lunch run was made to the nearby Rollie's Wharf. This was our first taste of the local Atlantic fare: deep fried scallops and seafood chowder. Delicious! After waiting in line for nearly an hour, we found out that our ferry (the J. & C. Smallwood) was delayed by a couple of hours. Anxious to get on the boat, we finally boarded at 6:00pm and made our way to our cabin. Going without much sleep for more than 24 hours had worn us out, so we were thankful to have secured a cabin on board with a private bathroom, shower, and bed.

Exhausted, we slept from 7:00pm until 10:00pm when we took the opportunity to roam about the ferry and star gaze. There was considerable cloud cover so there was not much to see. Sampling the very affordable , and surprisingly tasty, fish n' chips on board, we made our way back to our cabin for more shut eye.